Fridge Repair and Maintenance
A faulty fridge disrupts your entire daily routine and causes stress over spoiled food. Whether you have a built-in fridge, a freestanding tabletop model, or a large American fridge; when things go wrong, you want a quick and reliable solution. At We.repair, our certified technicians are ready to get your fridge operational again quickly, regardless of the brand or model.
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You can book an appointment below so that a professional technician from We.repair can come to your home to repair your fridge.
What we repair (and what we consciously do not) 🤝
At We.repair, we value clear agreements and honest advice. Fortunately, we can resolve the vast majority of fridge problems quickly, affordably, and right at your home.
These faults we resolve daily ✅
Is your fridge not working properly? In most cases, it is a faulty part that we can easily replace. We.repair carries out the following repairs among others:
Temperature sensors and thermostats: If your fridge remains too warm or everything freezes, we replace the sensors or the thermostat so that the temperature is perfectly regulated again.
Mechanical parts: Does the door no longer close properly? We replace worn door seals, broken hinges, and snapped handles. You can also come to us for broken shelves, glass plates, or vegetable drawers.
Electronics and circulation: We replace defective circuit boards (control modules), broken internal fans, and we repair malfunctioning automatic defrost systems.
For all these issues, our certified We.repair technicians have the right expertise to get your appliance operational again quickly!
What we do not repair: Refrigeration defects ❌
However, there is one specific category of repairs that we do not carry out for household refrigerators. We do not perform: the so-calledrefrigeration repairs.This includes soldering leaks in the cooling circuit, recharging refrigerant (freon), and replacing the compressor (the motor).
In practice, almost all specialised repair services for household appliances refuse these specific interventions. There are three main reasons for this:
Inaccessible leaks: A leak in the cooling circuit is often hidden in the back wall of the appliance, completely injected in the insulation (the foam). These leaks are physically impossible to reach and repair without damaging the entire casing.
Time-consuming and very expensive: Finding an accessible leak, soldering it shut, vacuuming the system, and recharging it is a very complex task. The labour hours accumulate to such an extent that the total cost almost always exceeds the residual value of the refrigerator.
No long-term certainty: Even after an expensive gas or compressor repair, the chance of a new leak is high. We stand for quality and want to avoid you paying a lot of money for a solution that may only be temporary.
What if our technician identifies this problem on-site?
Sometimes it is not immediately visible from the outside whether a cooling problem is electronic (which we do fix), or if it is a gas leak or a faulty compressor.
If our technician visits you, and after a thorough diagnosis it turns out that the appliance is irreparable due to a leak or a broken motor? Then we always play open cards. We stop the repair immediately to avoid further unnecessary costs for you. In that case, we charge only the fixed analysis cost. This way, you know exactly where you stand and can look forward to a new appliance with peace of mind – and a clear diagnosis.
Common problems with refrigerators 🧊
The refrigerator is not cooling or insufficiently
Always first check if the plug is properly in the socket and that there is power. If the power supply is fine, the problem often lies with a faulty thermostat, a broken compressor (motor), or in rare cases, a leak in the refrigerant circuit.
There is water in or under the refrigerator
Water at the bottom of the refrigerator (under the vegetable drawers) is usually caused by a blocked drainage hole at the back. Is there really a puddle of water under the appliance on the floor? Then the drip tray (above the motor) is probably overflowing, there is a crack in the drain hose, or there is a problem with the water connection (in American refrigerators with an ice dispenser).
The refrigerator makes a strange bubbling or ticking sound
A soft bubbling or humming sound is perfectly normal (this is the refrigerant circulating or the compressor running). However, if you hear loud knocks, a rattling sound, or an abnormally loud hum? Then the compressor may be worn out or the internal fan may be hitting something due to ice formation.
Thick ice formation (also in No-Frost models)
If a regular fridge builds up ice quickly, the door often does not seal properly (worn door seal), allowing warm air to constantly enter. If a 'No-Frost' or 'Low-Frost' appliance is still completely freezing up? Then the automatic defrost system (defrost heater or sensor) is likely defective and needs to be checked by a technician.
Error codes by Brand: What do they mean? 📟
Modern hobs communicate via error codes on the display. Here are some common codes by brand and what they usually mean:
Flashing temperature or red ALARM light: This is the most common message across all brands. It simply means that the internal temperature is too high. This can happen if the door has been left open too long or after loading a lot of warm groceries. Does the alarm continue to sound after a few hours? Then there is a cooling problem.
Bosch / Siemens / Neff (e.g. E20, E10): Often a communication error or a temperature issue. A faulty temperature sensor (NTC) is a common cause here.
Samsung / LG (e.g. 5E, 22E, 40E): This often indicates a problem with the defrost system or an error with the internal fan of the freezer compartment for these brands.
Miele / Liebherr (e.g. F-codes): Almost always point to a problem with the temperature sensors or the module.
You can try this yourself before calling us 🛠️
Not every problem requires an immediate technician. You can try this yourself:
Poking the Drain Hole: Do you see water under the vegetable drawer? Carefully poke the small hole in the back wall with a cotton bud or a skewer.
The Hard Reset: Unplug the fridge (or turn off the fuse in the box) for at least 10 to 15 minutes. Sometimes this resolves temporary electronic "glitches" in the display.
Cleaning Door Seals: Check if the doors still close perfectly. Is the rubber not sticking well anymore? Clean it with warm soapy water. A door that remains slightly ajar can cause ice formation and poor cooling.
Defrosting (if not No-Frost): Is there a thick layer of ice in the freezer compartment? This may block the fan and air circulation, which can lead to poor or no cooling. Turn off the appliance, leave the doors open, and let it fully defrost for 24 hours. An ice-free fridge cools much better and uses less power.
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How does a fridge actually work? The secret behind the cold! 🥶
It may be the hardest working appliance in your home. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, your fridge is on to keep your drinks ice-cold and your vegetables crisp and fresh. We open and close the door dozens of times a day, but have you ever thought about how this 'magic box' actually works? The operation of a fridge (or refrigerator) is a fascinating example of everyday physics!
A myth debunked: a fridge does not 'make' cold
The biggest misconception about fridges is that they produce cold air and blow it inside. In reality, a fridge does exactly the opposite: it removes heat.
The system extracts heat from the air inside the fridge and from the food you place in it, and dumps this heat outside the appliance (in your kitchen). This is exactly why the back or side walls of a fridge often feel warm.
The 4 steps of the cooling cycle explained
To move that heat from inside to outside, the fridge uses a specialrefrigerant. This is a substance that boils and evaporates at very low temperatures. This refrigerant makes a constant journey through four crucial components in your appliance:
1. The Compressor (The motor of your fridge) The journey begins at the compressor, the heavy, black ball that is usually located at the bottom of the back of your appliance. The compressor sucks in the refrigerant (which is a gas at that moment) and compresses it tightly. Due to this high pressure, the temperature of the gas rises significantly.
2. The Condenser (The warm grille at the back) This hot gas under high pressure then flows through the condenser – the black piping system at the back of your fridge. Because the air in your kitchen is cooler than the hot gas in the pipes, the gas releases its heat to the surroundings. As it cools down, the gas condenses and becomes a liquid again.
3. The Expansion Valve (The neck) Now comes the trick! The liquid is forced through a tiny tube (the capillary tube or expansion valve). Once the liquid passes through this narrowing, the pressure suddenly drops and the liquid expands enormously.Compare it to spraying a deodorant can: as the gas under pressure suddenly gets space, the spray can feels ice-cold.
4. The Evaporator (Inside the fridge) This now ice-cold liquid flows through the evaporator, a network of pipes in the inner walls (or the freezer compartment) of your fridge. The warm air from your food rises, touches the cold walls, and transfers its heat to the ice-cold liquid in the pipes. By absorbing this heat, the liquid boils and evaporates back into a gas.
This gas is then drawn back in by the compressor, and the whole cycle starts again from the beginning!
3 Fun Fridge Facts💡
Why doesn't it hum all the time? A fridge does not cool continuously. A built-in thermostat measures the temperature. If it drops below the set value (e.g. 5°C), the thermostat signals the compressor to start. That's why you hear it humming occasionally and then it is quiet for hours.
A full fridge is more efficient than an empty one. Chilled products (like bottles of water or jars of sauce) retain the cold well. When you open the door, the cold air escapes, but your chilled groceries stay cold and help the fridge return to temperature more quickly.
The first fridges were life-threatening. In the past (early 20th century), toxic and flammable gases like ammonia and sulfur dioxide were used as refrigerants. A leak could have disastrous consequences. Fortunately, we now use completely safe and more environmentally friendly refrigerants!
Complex system, quick repair
As you read, the fridge is a perfectly balanced system of pressure, liquids, and gases. If one of these components – the compressor, the thermostat, or the cooling circuit – malfunctions, the whole cycle stops and your food gets warm.
Do you notice that the cycle in your appliance is disrupted? Our We.repair technicians know this system inside out and can quickly identify the weak link.
Frequently asked questions about refrigerators (FAQ) ❓
Do you have a quick question about the use or maintenance of your refrigerator? We have gathered and answered the most frequently asked questions on Google by our We.repair technicians.
What is the ideal temperature for a refrigerator?
The ideal temperature for the cooling compartment is around 4°C. At this temperature, you optimally slow down the growth of bacteria and mould, keeping your food fresh for the longest time. Be careful with older models that have a dial with numbers (e.g. 1 to 7): these numbers indicate the cooling power, not the degrees! Setting 7 is therefore the coldest, not 7 degrees. Setting 3 or 4 is usually ideal on such a dial.
How long should a refrigerator not be turned on after moving?
This depends on how the refrigerator was transported. There is oil in the motor (compressor). If the refrigerator has been laid flat, this oil may have flowed into the pipes of the cooling circuit. If you turn the appliance on immediately, the motor can be irreparably damaged.
Has the refrigerator stood upright during transport? Then wait at least 4 hours before plugging it in.
Has the refrigerator been laid flat? Then wait at least 24 hours so that all the oil can settle back into the compressor.
Can I place my refrigerator in an unheated garage or shed?
Not just any fridge or freezer is suitable for a cold, unheated space. This is related to the 'climate class' of the appliance. If the temperature in your garage drops below 10°C in winter, the thermostat of many standard fridges 'thinks' it is cold enough. The motor then does not turn on, causing the freezer compartment to defrost! Check the manual to see if your appliance has climate class SN-T or is specially designed for cold environments.
How long does a fridge typically last?
A quality fridge lasts on average 10 to 15 years. The exact lifespan depends on the brand, model, and how well the appliance is maintained. You can extend the lifespan yourself by keeping the door seals clean, defrosting the appliance on time (if there is ice formation), and ensuring that the back has enough ventilation space to dissipate heat effectively. If your fridge starts showing issues after 8 years, a repair is often still worth it instead of buying a new one immediately.
Why is the back or side wall of my fridge hot?
This is completely normal and is part of the appliance's operation. A fridge does not produce cold, but removes heat from the inside. This heat is then released through the pipes in the back or side walls to the outside (into your kitchen). Especially after loading a lot of new groceries, or on warm summer days, the fridge has to work harder and these walls will feel warmer.