Is your dishwasher leaking water? Causes and solutions

What you can check yourself first (Free & Quick) 🛠️

Before scheduling a repair, you can rule out these three common (and harmless) causes yourself:

1. Water at the front: Check the door seal

There is a rubber seal around the opening of the dishwasher. If there are food residues, a stray toothpick, or dried grease stuck in it, the door will not close properly. Water will then seep down along the door during washing.

• The solution: Wipe the rubber seal thoroughly with a damp cloth. Check if the rubber is torn anywhere. Is it damaged? Then it needs to be replaced.

2. The spray arm is stuck or damaged

If the lower spray arm cannot rotate (for example, because it hits a large plate), it constantly sprays a strong jet of water at one fixed spot, often towards the bottom of the door. The seals cannot withstand this, causing water to be forced out. A hairline crack in the spray arm can also cause water to spray in the wrong direction.

• The solution: Ensure that the spray arm can rotate freely and check if the plastic seam of the arm has not cracked.

3. The 'Dreft' error (Massive foam formation)

Did you accidentally put regular liquid dish soap in the dishwasher because the tablets were out? Or did you put a pot with a lot of suds in? Regular dish soap foams excessively in a dishwasher. This foam expands so much that it is forced out through the seals and vent holes. It looks like a serious leak, but it is just foam.

• The solution: Scoop out the foam, pour a splash of disinfectant alcohol or cooking oil at the bottom (this breaks down the foam immediately) and run a cold rinse programme.

When do you need a We.repair technician? 🔧

Have you checked the seals and not used any dish soap, but it still leaks? Then something is wrong internally. Since built-in dishwashers need to be removed from the kitchen to access the components, this work is for an expert.

• Leakage at the threshold seal: At the bottom of the door (invisible from the outside) is a thick rubber seal. This rubber wears out faster than the side seals due to the constant heat and movement of the door. Replacing it is a delicate job.

• Torn hoses or loose clamps: Due to years of vibrations and hot water, the internal hoses between the pumps can become porous or a hose clamp can come loose.

• Leaking circulation pump: The main pump that circulates the water can start to leak at the shaft seal (oil seal) after several years.

• Defective AquaStop or supply hose: Sometimes it leaks right at the tap. The thick hose with the safety block (AquaStop) can become defective, causing it to drip continuously.

Water on the floor or an error code on the screen? Prevent water damage to your kitchen. Our local We.repair technicians quickly locate the leak, safely dismantle the dishwasher for you, and expertly seal the leak. Schedule a repair with We.repair immediately

Behind the scenes: How does the machine 'know' it is leaking? 💡

Your dishwasher shows the E15 or i30 error code, but you see no water on your kitchen floor? How does the machine know it is leaking?

Under the actual wash tub of your dishwasher is a hidden, sealed plastic tray (the base plate), just above the floor. In this tray is a round piece of foam. As soon as a hose or pump drips internally, this water falls onto that base plate. The foam floats up like a buoy and taps against a switch.

That is the signal for the machine: "Panic! Leak!" The machine immediately shuts off the water supply via the tap (the AquaStop) and starts pumping continuously to prevent your kitchen from flooding. So, if you don't see any water on the floor, it means the safety mechanism has done its job perfectly!

What does the error code on your display mean? (AquaStop active) ⚠️

Modern dishwashers have a built-in anti-flood system. As soon as the machine detects an internal leak, it stops immediately, pumps out the water, and displays an error code:

• Bosch & Siemens: E15. The absolute classic! There is water on the base plate and the float has been activated.

• AEG, Electrolux & Zanussi: i30 (or 3 flashes). The anti-flood system is activated. The pump often continues to run even when you open the door.

• Miele: F70 or message "Waterproof". Water detected in the base tray.

• Whirlpool & Bauknecht: F2 (or 2 flashes). Water leakage or AquaStop activated.

• Samsung: LC or LE (Leakage Error). The moisture sensor has detected water.

Prevention is better than cure: 3 tips against leaks 🛡️

1. Use the supplied funnel for salt When refilling the salt container, if you spill salt granules on the stainless steel bottom of the machine, always start a short rinse programme immediately! Loose salt granules can eat through the stainless steel. This causes invisible holes (pitting corrosion) which can lead to leaks in the tub. This is irreversible.

2. Clean the seals regularly Wipe the door seals once a month with a soft, damp cloth with a bit of cleaning vinegar. This keeps the rubber supple and prevents it from drying out, cracking, and leaking.

3. Do not force the door shut If the bottom drawer is not pushed in properly or a plate is sticking out, never force the door shut. This will distort the hinges or the door itself, making it impossible for the seals to fit watertight again.

Repair or replace? (Honest advice) 💰

A leak sounds like the end, but in the vast majority of cases it is repairing is the best and cheapest option. The cause of the leak (a gasket, a rubber seal, or a small hose) is often very inexpensive in terms of parts. Even if it is the circulation pump, the repair costs usually weigh up well against the cost of a completely new (built-in) dishwasher.

The exception: If the machine is over 12 years old and the stainless steel tub itself has rusted through or cracked (often due to salt crystals that have not been washed away), then repair is no longer possible. Our technician will always advise you honestly in that case.